Seefeld: Austria’s Hidden Poker Gem

I may be in the minority but I don’t dislike the French. I do, however, dislike their hotels which generally feature rooms the size of a bidet-less toilet and offer a breakfast consisting of little more than a stale roll and a piece of pungent cheese. Their cost is akin to French cash game rake: high or astronomical depending on the size of the pot.

Coincidentally just prior to preparing this report, and enjoying stunning views of the snow laden Austrian Alps, an email arrived offering me cut-price hotel accommodation in Deauville for the European Poker Tour.

It transpires a two night stay in the Tudor-styled Normandy hamlet — which in late January and February is as quiet as a morgue and about as interesting — will cost more than a fully equipped apartment which sleeps six here in Seefeld, Austria, for an entire week.

Pointing out only France’s shortcomings is a little unfair. How about London, another popular stop of countless poker tours. Admittedly it’s busy, but hotels such as the Metropole are equally expensive (and small).

Edgware Road is littered with fast-food joints, the word’s “please” and “thank you” feature in nobodies vocabulary, buses, and taxis spew out enough diesel fumes to lead a church roof every hour and, according to at least one poker player, the likelihood of getting mugged at an ATM is about a good as your queens overcoming an ace-king.

True, Barcelona probably wins the “want to get mugged stakes”, while Riga, Vilnius and Tallinn give meaning to the word depression. But, at the end of the day, is there a town, city or venue that truly ticks all the right boxes?

Yes! To the rescue comes little-known Seefeld, an exclusive Austrian ski resort which, each January, plays host to the opening leg of the Casinos Austria Poker Tour (CAPT).

A well-kept secret? No, Seefeld is possibly the best kept secret in European poker. One would presume the reason for such furtiveness is the town and venue not being a stop on a larger Europe-wide tour (such as the EPT, Unibet Open, EMOP et-al) meaning visitors of the online qualifier variety have yet to enjoy or even ruin all this picturesque town has to offer.

That theory is reflected by the clientele at the 2012 CAPT which appears to be, dare one say it, an average of two decades older than the average EPT contestant.

Getting to Seefeld is simple. An abundance of low-cost airlines fly directly into Innsbruck which is a mere 20-minute taxi-ride away. Munich airport is an obvious alternative, albeit an additional 90-minute drive will be required. Likewise Salzburg is about two hours by car. However, with this being ever-efficient continental Europe, Seefeld can be reached directly by train from numerous cities simply, quickly, scenically, and enjoyably.

Indeed it’s Seefeld’s location which gives all of its poker events a cosmopolitan, in addition to an elderly, feel. You could throw a stone over the German border, in 45 minutes you could be in Italy; and Switzerland, even Liechtenstein are no more than a morning’s drive away.

Whatever your journey involves it will be well worthwhile. Clean air, wonderful scenery, an abundance of winter activities on offer and, once the sun disappears behind a mountain peak, poker in an intimate and friendly environment.

At festival times such as the CAPT Seefeld Casino would appear exempt from recession. Tournaments are mid-ranged (€250, €350 and €500 with €200 satellites into a €2,000 main event) and feature “beatable” field sizes of 120-180 players.

However, when the waiting list to a cash game requiring a €2,000 minimum buy-in (and minimum re-buy of €2,000) has 18 names on it, you know there are enough purple €500 notes about the place to wallpaper a sizeable house.

Cash game rake is set at five percent and capped at €15 — reasonable, given the sizes of so many of the games. Chairs are comfortable, tables are large with shuffle machines, and the dealers are competent. It’s all that you would expect from a casino which added poker to its traditional casino offering 23 years ago.

Above all of this there is just an inexplicable charm about Casino Seefeld. It’s small and intimate with a real warmth about the place. Directly outside is a beautiful pedestrianised town centre which, toward the end of January, is decorated by some amazing ice statues. Quality restaurants, small bars, and immaculate buildings, as previously featured on the cover of fairytale books, complete the scene.

That leaves the town itself. Twice home to the Winter Olympics its pistes are ideal for beginners through to intermediate and advanced skiers. There is also an ice rink and even a swimming pool complex. In short, something for everyone. ♠