Pass the Trash, Boys

Amidst continual congenial chatter, Bumper (this persistent raiser is nicknamed appropriately) antes two 25-cent chips and, after giving each player four downcards, sloppily slides eight cards facedown in front of him. I would ask what game we're about to play, but I know I won't be heard over the din of my opponents' conversations. Currently, the main confab involves the swimming pool regulations in our community. On my side of the table, two players begin another discussion concerning their first automobiles. I chime in with, "Mine was a used Nash Metropolitan."



Finally, it dawns on one of the four Jerrys in the game that we don't know what game Bumper is dealing. Jerry inquires, "Is this Wings?" Bumper, instead of replying, arranges four boardcards into a horizontal row and places the remaining four in a parallel alignment beneath the first row. From this alignment, I recall the cards will be revealed two at a time, one from the top row and one from the bottom row. There will be five betting rounds in this high-low, declare game (players will indicate their direction after the final bet by placing one chip in their closed hand for low, two chips for high, and three chips for high and low). Players going low must qualify with an eight-or-better holding. The best low in any game we play is a 5-4-3-2-A (a wheel).



Gary asks, "Can we use all our cards?" That's a good question, since sometimes we are allowed to play only two from our hand, while at other times we may play any and all our holecards.



Bumper responds, "All the cards." So, in this game, players may use from one to four holecards in combination with cards from either the top row or the bottom row to make their best five of eight. In addition, the four cards on the corners may be used in lieu of the top or bottom row. This is one of the few games we play that has not been labeled. I think of it as "Corners."



The explosion of casino, online, and televised poker has led to an increase in the number of home poker games across the world. With the understanding that neither Card Player nor I recommend participating in lawless activities, this feature article will introduce you to several games like "Corners," provide a few of the things you might consider if you currently organize or participate in private-club or home-game poker, and offer some basic home-game strategy.



I have played in numerous home games in my poker career – from pennies per pot as a child to a $2-$20 spread-limit, high-low, dealer's choice game in Long Island when I was in my 20s. Norman Berliner, one of my opponents in that game, went on to capture a World Series of Poker (WSOP) bracelet in seven-card stud eight-or-better in 1984. So much for my game-selection prowess! Alas, all has not been smooth sailing. I have been cheated (I believe just once, and in a game in which I knew only one player). The lone time I played in that game, I lost almost $200, noticed a few things that led me to believe the cards were not being distributed randomly, and never returned. Then there was May 5, 1983, the night I was robbed. I was playing in a raked game in Queens for the fourth time. The game seemed on the square, the players were mostly businessmen, and I had won more than $250 each time I played. Just before midnight, two masked, armed robbers blasted through the front door of the organizer's apartment as a player exited. Later, we concluded that player had "fingered" the game. I'll never forget the crashing sound and subsequent demands of one of the assailants: "Everyone take off your shoes, empty your pockets inside out, and lie facedown with your hands behind your backs. And do it now!" Our wrists were bound with duct tape, our cash and jewelry were stolen, and the apartment was ransacked. That was the last time I played in a high-stakes home game. Having a gun pointed at your face puts financial gain in perspective.

The "Big L" is a big action game.

Odds are, you are playing with family, friends, and/or some poker acquaintances who are simply gathering for a night of low-stakes enjoyment, so I'll simply offer my 1983 experience as a cautionary warning to ensure optimum security if you play in high-stakes home games.



Let's move on to my Thursday evening game. I'm an alternate (summoned when they need me) in this friendly, once-a-week encounter at the community center where I live. Our 75,000-square-foot facility features three separate card-game areas and 24 gaming tables (of which six are octagon-shaped, felt-covered poker tables complete with chip receptacles and drink holders). At least two of the poker tables are in use on most nights.



Some Games We Play



Anaconda (aka Pass the Trash): Players pass two cards to the left and one to the right. Then, two cards are discarded from each hand. Players make the best high or low hand from their remaining five cards, and a betting round ensues. Hands of all who have not folded are arranged, placed facedown, and cards are rolled one at a time preceding betting rounds. Straights and flushes may play both high and low in all of our games.



Big L: Players receive five holecards and may use any or all of these cards in conjunction with one card from each combination of two cards that will be revealed prior to each betting round. Four packs of two cards each are placed at the top-left and lower-right side portions of the "L" formation, enabling players to use either the vertical or horizontal row. The fifth pack is located at the intersection of the "L" and contains four cards. This grouping is revealed last, and provides incentive to chase. This game is played with chip declare, and an 8 low (or better) is required.

Left Photo: Bumper, a left-handed bettor, is relentless. Right Photo: The joker (second from left in top row) is almighty powerful in our game.

Omaha high-low: We use two from the hand of our four holecards and three from one of the three horizontal rows of five cards each (see the photo). Different combinations can be used for high and low. Jerry Lee deals this game and plays without a high-low declaration.



Lemonade: In this misnamed high-low game (I believe it was originally called "Eliminate," but one of the players changed the name), five cards are dealt to us and 10 cards are placed facedown on the board in two vertical rows. We may use all of our holecards. We bet. Then, the bottom two cards from the right row are revealed. Let's assume they are the 5 and the 9. They may or may not become a part of our hand. That depends on their colors in relation to the cards that will be revealed directly to their left. Bear with me. After another betting round, the two cards immediately above the 5 and the 9 are revealed. We'll assume they are the 10 and the 10. A betting round follows. Now, the top card in the right row and the top card in the left row are revealed. Let's say the top card in the right row is the A and the top card in the left row is the 4. The dealer would announce something like, "Same color, they stay." Side-by-side cards stay only if they are the same color (or one is the joker; more on the joker later). If they are different colors, both are removed and placed in the muck. It takes another two betting rounds to reveal the remaining four left-side cards. As they are revealed, the dealer determines whether these cards and their adjacent counterparts stay or go based on their colors. When all boardcards have been revealed, there is a final round of betting. The player who deals this game most frequently plays with a high-low declaration. Unlike most of the other column and row games that we play, all of the remaining boardcards may be merged with a player's five holecards.



The first time I played Lemonade, I had sixes full and a 6-5-4-3-2 low after three rounds of betting. When it became time to declare, I had a busted hand both ways, since eight of the 10 boardcards had disappeared. The next time I played the game, I wound up mucking a king-high full house during the final betting round because only two of the cards had been "color-matched," so we were playing our best five out of 13 cards. A straight flush took high. Once, I folded a winning nut low because I forgot that I could deploy all of the boardcards. That error turned out to be financially insignificant when two other players called low and revealed wheels (I would have captured only one-sixth of the pot).



Crisscross: I deal this game. I give each player five downcards and announce, "High-low, eight qualifier, chip declare, and you can play all of your cards." I place three downcards vertically in the middle of the table. Next, I place one downcard to the left of the middle card and one to the right of the middle card. I announce, "Play either down or across, and I'll turn them two, two, and one." There are four betting rounds. I reveal one side card and the top card after the first betting round. After the second round, I turn the other side card and the bottom card. The middle (and key) card is revealed after the third betting round. We bet once more and players reveal their hands. I play this game because it's easy to deal, I get to see a high percentage of the cards immediately, and I understand the probabilities involved in this game better than when we play games with an abundance of appearing and disappearing cards in the middle of the table.



We play several variations of the above games, and I'm omitting many games that are too difficult to explain, but the above sampling gives you an idea of the complexities involved. My Thursday night opponents are faithful Card Player readers, thus they know I write about poker. They were patient with my questions. When I asked why they don't play with wild cards, they replied that brings too much luck into the game. I wonder about that sentiment. When I was learning how to play poker eons ago, one of my mentors told me, "Lee, wild cards and game variations are your friend. The more variables that players must contend with, the more our skill comes into play." I agree.

Larry (left), Stan (center), and Jerry B. (right) before the action begins

Lemme See What You Folded

In addition to getting my arms around the Thursday night game variations, I had to adjust to my opponents' absolute lack of poker etiquette. Players routinely discuss hands in progress (they even verbalize about players' precise holdings). For example, recently we were playing Omaha eight-or-better. I raised on the turn. "The Fruit Man," who had folded on the flop, announced that I had made aces full. He was correct. When I bet on the river, my two opponents folded. Earlier that evening, Stan did something I had never seen. I folded my "Corners" downcards. Stan, seated to my left, also folded. He casually extracted my four cards from the muck and inspected them, saying, "I wonder if we had something together."



Players often announce they are folding, but they hang on to their cards (in order to follow their hands). While I know they aren't cheating, it is difficult to determine whose hands are live and dead. When I was dealing Crisscross recently, several times there were three remaining players but five were holding cards. Any mention of playing more like folks do in a casino is met with strong resistance. I suppose that this is an appeal of social poker, but as an orderly type, this flagrant disregard for poker code is disconcerting.

Jerry Lee examines the flop in three-line Omaha.

You Can't Squash Our Bug

The Thursday betting structure is one 25-cent chip until either a pair shows on the board or we reach the next-to-last bet, when either 25 cents or 50 cents may be bet. We play eighthanded. Check-raising and call-raising are not allowed. The deal rotates. The dealer chooses the game (including whether we play high or high-low). When we play high-low, a player declaring both ways must win both ways. If a player ties or loses either way, his hand is mucked and the remaining players' cards read to determine the winner or winners. We use one joker (the bug). This 53rd card can complete flushes and straights. In addition, the bug can be used as an ace in high hands and can become a player's card of choice to complete a low hand. The joker is very powerful. When I started playing with these seasoned sharks, I underestimated the value of the joker slightly, and I had no clue what constituted a big hand, since there are so many cards in play. I quickly comprehended the fact that mediocre full houses are not almighty, and second-nut low is a chip drainer. So far, my results are good. I have scored one strong win ($58), and I've eked out a profit in the other five sessions through good starting-hand selection and player-reading skills.



If I were setting up a game, here are a few things I would recommend:



Player comforts: The table and chairs should be designed to provide adequate hip space and legroom. Avoid cheap metal or wood seating. Players should be able to sit for a few hours without developing "numb a—" syndrome. The quality of the chips is an underrated aspect of player amenities. Spend a few bucks and buy something better than the old red, white, and blue plastic chips we all used as kids. Buy Kem cards or a similar product made from cellulose acetate plastic. These tickets are almost immune to abuse, comfortable to handle/shuffle, washable, and inexpensive in the long run.



Avoiding confrontations: A benefit of playing in a casino cardroom or online is that disputes are resolved by rules or a floorperson who has final authority. Without guidelines in place, disputes can develop, causing unnecessary delay and, in a worst-case scenario, hard feelings that may cause a home game to break. While the prevailing ambience of a home game is friendly competition, relaxation, and fun, regulations covering touchy situations should be put in place to prevent uncomfortable encounters. Here are some examples:



• Playing with cash or credit. While it may be convenient to play on "owesies," I recommend that players pay for their chips each time they receive them from the organizer (the bank).



• Designating the number of raises. I suggest three raises (moving to unlimited when players are heads up).



• Misdeals: All players should know what constitutes a misdeal. In our game, unseen downcards may be pushed around if players have too many or too few, but an exposed downcard constitutes a misdeal.



• Declaration for high and low: We declare with chips, but other games use the "around the table" method starting from the high card on board or from the left of the dealer. Decide how to handle ties when a player declares high and low. We use "ties lose," but I prefer the casino way (tied hands share the portion of the pot they are vying for).



• Ante structure: Antes can be either per person or dealer only. Dealer only resolves the "Who forgot to ante?" problem, so that's what I recommend.



• Cost sharing: Players should share the cost of food, cards, chips, and so on. A commonly used system is to "cut the pot" for expenses. A small amount is taken from each pot until the costs are collected/reimbursed.



• Quitting time: Players should agree on and abide by a pre-established quitting time. Losers always want to play longer to get even. Strict adherence to the game's curfew prevents potential problems.



Seven Simple Strategies

I belong to a social group that recently added a poker night to its monthly calendar. I told them I was embarking on a home-game poker article, and asked what they would like to see in it. The consensus response was strategy. When outlining this article, I had dismissed the idea of incorporating strategies because one's home-game moves are almost entirely dependent upon the opponents' widely varying skill levels and the various betting structures. In addition, different games require different strategies. For example, I often fold marginal hands in the first betting round of Crisscross, but almost always see the nine-card flop in three-line Omaha high-low. Setting these cautions aside, here are some general strategy concepts for home-game poker:



• If you play dealer's choice, choose a game that you enjoy and one that suits your playing style. For example, if your opponents are very loose, incorporate Chicago (the high downcard spade splits the pot with the high hand) into your repertoire. You will muck hands such as (J 5) 5, but your opponents will play that holding, hoping the jack becomes the high spade or they make a set.



• When others deal a game that is new to you, complex, or confusing, fold all but very strong starting hands.



• Play selectively. A rule of thumb, depending upon the relative size of the ante to the average pot size, is to play as tight as the tightest player in a loose game (most home games are on the loose side). Of course, if the ante is large, you must contend more often or face the problem of being "anted down."



• Don't give your strength (or lack thereof) away by expression or discussion. At least five times each Thursday night, I receive unsolicited, definitive information from opponents who have missed their hands. They clearly indicate they will fold when it becomes their turn. At other times, these same players give away their strength. One invariably acts out of turn, or asks, "Whose bet is it?" when he holds a big hand.



• Don't get tricky. Advanced plays are usually lost on your home-game opponents. Playing straightforward poker is a good idea in almost all low-limit play. So, always bet when you have good hands. The majority of home-game players are "live" (pronounced with a hard "i"). That means they came to play (not fold), and they usually will call your bets. Bluffs rarely succeed against these players. Conversely, don't chase when players represent strong hands; they usually will show down just such a hand after persistent betting.



• Watch and listen carefully. As stated, being observant will win you chips from those who reveal their holdings through verbal and/or visual clues. In addition, since the strengths of home-game players run the gamut from clueless to skillful, you should adjust to the play and propensities of individual opponents. For example, in my Thursday game, I will often call Bumper's raises, but generally run from a raise made by Gary.



• When playing high-low, be partial to low starting hands. A great low hand such as (A 4) 5 can become a straight, flush, or full house, but a strong high starting hand such as (K Q) J can never become a low when playing stud eight-or-better.